GRENADINE HAND MADE TIES

It's a long story coming from the period of the English Industrialization. It was in fact in 1809, in England, that an English creative called John Heathcoat built the first loom suited to produce the woven one in gauze. It seems that it was built in Loughborough a mill expressly to store the ingenious machine, ready to weave the new fabric.Some years later,in 1816, a "Luddites group" invaded the mill and burned it. There was the risk to loose the traces of a so genious creation. The Luddites was a popular movement developed in England at the beginning of XIX century, marked from the fight against the introduction of machinery. At that time people believe that the machinery could took off the work instead of the effort, as in opposite the slogan state in that period.

As usual happened in the meanwhile that the world pass through the revolutions, it was really difficult and it took a big effort to make a decision. However the destruction of the mill didn’t discourage Heathcoat at all. He rebuilded the machinery improving the mechanics and increasing the performances and the precision. His tenacity gave to the world a machine that let dream the fans of stylishness and preciosity style.

Probably during a trip in that English lands Germano Fumagalli get involved with it. So it was during the middle age of 1800 he was one of the first to set up in  Italy those gauze hand-looms and to found the “Fumagalli & Pianca”

THE "GAUZE"

Grenadine is a variety of weaving that has a story full of mystery, but mostly set on the shores of Lake Como. In this beautiful area the grenadine is weaved, according to tradition, on historic wooden looms which can carry out complex designs thanks to the movement of the single wrap threads.

Grenadine fabric or “Garza a giro inglese” (English gauze) in Italian, as it is described in the international Dictionary of Textile published in 1997, is woven in a gauze weave also known as “Leno weave”. While in typical weaves the warp threads (vertical) and the weft threads (horizontal) yarns go over and under each other, grenadine has a third dimension by having another warp yarn that also cross over each other.  This gives it lightness, makes it look like gauze allowing light to pass and see through and the Leno weave allows to get a strong yet sheer fabric with almost no yarn slippage or misplacement of threads.

"It is said that during the late 1800’s, it was normal practice to go into the old Fumagalli headquarter in via Sirtori in Milan to get a tie made from Fumagalli’s gauze, choosing a design from the archive and watching your tie woven and hand stitch finished."

Nowadays grenadine has been almost forgotten as a fabric to make cloths, but it is becoming one of the most valuable and luxurious way to weave ties. Grenadine ties are not only made by the usual finished silk, but they can be weave in wool, cashmere, raw shantung silk or by combination of all these. It is also composed by a wide range of solid colours and the combination between these materials and the weave give to grenadine tie the brightness and the sheen of printed ones.

Grenadine ties appears in two mainly varieties called fine gauze, or garza fina in Italian, and large gauze, or garza grossa, that has more visible texture than the other one.

Grenadine is one of the most valuable and luxurious silk to weave a tie. Grenadine ties can be worn in a wide range of occasion and are particularly appreciated from every estimator; they have long been associated with powerful and iconic men across cinema history, from Sean Connery’s James Bond to Frank Underwood in House of Cards.