Folding a pocket square: four ideas for a classy touch

The origin of the pochette, or pocket square, seems to date back to the banks of
the Nile River in ancient Egypt. Apparently, the people of that area used the ancestor of
this accessory both as a cloth to wipe away the sweat and toil of hard work,
but also as an object to flaunt their wealth.


The pocket square: a harmonious and elegant style apostrophe

During the Mediaeval period, ladies of the time used to use a handkerchief sprinkled with perfume to hold close to their nose to contrast the smells of the city during their daily walks. In this period, the pochette also started to become popular with bourgeois men who began to wear it as a stylish ornament. Fine fabrics embellished with decorations and embroidery were a demonstration of one's privileged social status and membership of a certain class.

It was in the 18th century that a name was definitively established for this accessory. The King of France, Louis XVI, was a great admirer of the pocket square. Every morning one of his subjects would hand him a tray with the most diverse patterns and the king would choose the one that best represented his mood that day, then place it in his jacket pocket. It was Marie Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI, who convinced the king to establish a standard size for pocket squares, 40 centimeters to be precise, and to call them “pochettes” (which means “pocket” in French).

However, the birth of the actual pocket square as a symbol of sartorial fashion, as we understand it today, dates back to the 19th century, when suits made up of a jacket and trousers officially entered the world of men's fashion, conquering the hearts of gentlemen all over the world. In the 1950s, Hollywood stars were true icons for this accessory. One cannot forget the white pocket square that classily completed the looks of the elegant James Bond.

Today, the clutch bag is used as a distinctive element in men's outfits, synonymous with class, attention to detail and self-care, able to adapt to solemn, formal, business and even more casual contexts.

Four ideas for wearing a pocket square with class

Silk, cotton and wool are the fine yarns that Fumagalli 1891 uses to produce its collection of pocket squares, entirely sewn by hand. These materials make them extremely versatile and adaptable to various contexts. From cotton, suitable for everyday day outfits, to silk and wool, perfect fabrics for special occasions, ceremonies, business looks or elegant evenings. The colours and patterns of Fumagalli's pocket squares are a true hallmark: the designs come from the family's historical archive. Patterns designed to make this accessory a distinct element but at the same time in perfect harmony with the look, for an elegant, sophisticated and refined effect.

Here then are four style ideas, four tips on how to fold and wear the pocket square for a real touch of class and to make the whole outfit interesting.

Triangular or single point fold

This is one of the simplest ways of folding the pochette, which will only allow one corner of the pocket square to come out of the jacket pocket. To make it, the two ends must be overlapped diagonally, creating a triangle with the tip pointing upwards. Subsequently, imagining to create an envelope, the other two edges of the pochette should be folded in half. Particularly suitable for elegant but not too formal contexts, the triangular fold will make your casual or sporty look accurate.

Two tips fold

Very similar to the triangular fold, the two tips fold is characterised by the fact that, to make it, it is necessary to offset the two points of the triangle that is created by folding the pocket square in half. The procedure is then the same as for the triangular fold. This way of wearing the pochette is very popular in business contexts or important meetings, to add a personal touch to daytime outfits.

Square or presidential fold

Perfect for formal occasions, combined with suits with or without a tie, or an elegant dinner jacket, it is a very minimal fold but with a great touch of class. To make it, simply fold the pocket square over itself twice to make a smaller square which is then tucked into the breast pocket, taking care to allow only a few centimeters of fabric to come out.

Puff or casual fold

Particularly suitable for silk pochettes, it is made by holding the pocket square in the centre, then letting it drop downwards, folding the lower part upwards. The pocket square should then be placed inside the handkerchief with the flaps facing upwards, trying to arrange them to resemble the petals of a flower. This will create a fresh and fluffy, almost light effect. If you wish to obtain a still voluminous but more restrained result, simply wear the handkerchief upside down, with the tips inside the pocket.

The pocket square is a must-have detail in the wardrobe of true gentlemen who want to express themselves through style. Once you have identified the context in which you want to wear the pocket square, all that remains for you to do is to indulge in the ways in which you can wear this accessory and dare with the precious fantasies of the historical Fumagalli 1891 collection.


Discover the Fumagalli 1891 pocket square collection