fabrics around the world
It's a long story coming from the period of the English Industrialization. It was in fact in 1809, in England, that an English creative called John Heathcoat built the first loom suited to produce the woven one in gauze. It seems that it was built in Loughborough a mill expressly to store the ingenious machine, ready to weave the new fabric. Some years later,in 1816, a "Luddites group" invaded the mill and burned it. There was the risk to loose the traces of a so genious creation. The Luddites was a popular movement developed in England at the beginning of XIX century, marked from the fight against the introduction of machinery. At that time people believe that the machinery could took off the work instead of the effort, as in opposite the slogan state in that period. As usual happened in the meanwhile that the world pass through the revolutions, it was really difficult and it took a big effort to make a decision. However the destruction of the mill didn’t discourage Heathcoat at all. He rebuilded the machinery improving the mechanics and increasing the performances and the precision. His tenacity gave to the world a machine that let dream the fans of stylishness and preciosity style. Probably during a trip in that English lands Germano Fumagalli get involved with it. So it was during the middle age of 1800 he was one of the first to set up in Italy those gauze hand-looms and to found the “Fumagalli & Pianca”.
In India since about 1870, with periods of decline and recovery, the silkworm is bred. In particular this country is the homland of tussah which is mostly found in the north-eastern Deccan, in Bengal, Assam, Burma and on the Himalayan slope.
Tussah is so-called wild silk because is produced from the cocoon of wild, non-bred worms. Compared to traditional silk, tussah silk has an inimitable finesse, a great resistance and excellent recovery following traction and prolonged use of the fabric.
Tussah is a fabric with rustic and irregular appearance, with a texture of Tussah silk and a retouched and slightly irregular yarn.
ITALIA 1952 : THE GOLD TWILL
Shantung silk is a rough-looking weave fabric that was born from the combination of culture and nature. It was born in Shandong a rich region in the west of China, on the shores of the yellow sea. As everybody knows the silk history in China is really long, a Legend has it that the birth of sericulture is due to Empress XI Ling Shi who discovered the qualities of the cocoon in 5000 a.c. In this region the union of two worms that contract the cocoon together, called a “duplicate”, gave birth to shantung. Shantung silk, once handcrafted on a loom, that has a lot of irregularity that seem flawed to an inexperienced eye, but which makes the fabric unique and so precious.
In conclusion Shantung is a braided fabric in taffetas with silk duplicate yarn characterized by a notable irregularity of the title. It is also performed with warp in shappe and double weft. It has been selected because the characteristic yarn that makes this fabric unique.
Now let’s fly to Ireland, considered, in combination with Scotland, the home of tweed. Tweed emerged is Scotland and Ireland as a work suit, as a way for the farmers to battle the chilly climate that characterizes those lands. Only during the nineteenth century the wearing of tweed become a gentleman’s way of dressing.
The homeland of Irish tweed is the county of Donegal, where even today it weaves on wooden looms. Donegal is a fabric with carded and buttoned weft yarn and semi-combed in the warp.
Weft and warp in donegal are dyed in various tints, in fact donegal provides for the insertion of threads with bold colours.
The characteristics of Donegal are the rough surface and the sandblasted appearance, mottled in different colors, with many wool particles, called "buttons" coloured on the surface and the sweet hand.
Its colours in ancient times also indicated the social status of its wearer: kings could use up to seven colours, poets and bards six, warriors three and servants one.
The colours had different origins: green came from heather, brown from peat, dark red from lichen scratched off rocks, purple from myrtle.
In antiquity considered a winter fabric it was mostly used for jackets and sports suits
Melange yarn seems to have French origins, probably related to embroidery and needles. The embroidery art is now mostly widespread among women, but is well known that in the past was a man occupation.
Jacquard fabric takes its name from Joseph Marie Jacquard, its inventor. In Lyon he invented a loom thanks to which you could create fabrics with incredible weaving possibilities. At the Exposition des Produits de Industrie National of Paris in 1801, he presented a mechanism that applied to the manual loom made mechanical the selection of wires for weave the design onto the fabric. In the middle of Industrial Revolution this modification allowed the weaver to operate on the loom without the help of assistants. In the revolutionary movements emerging throughout Europe, He was accused by textile workers for being the cause of the loss of their jobs and he was threatened with death. It took about 25 years before its first prototype was used well-functioning and on an industrial scale. First around 1820 for wool, linen and cotton, around 1845 also for silk. The final version of the machine called Jacquard, in honour of its inventor, permitted with only one movement the contemporary rise of hundreds and hundreds of wires. The jacquard mechanism on the handlooms was arranged above the swing boxes. It was then in Bologna that the Italian Vincenzi, around 1867, refined the mechanism by increasing productivity. Subsequently, the American Northrop in 1894 invented the automatic transmission of the shuttle making the frame completely automatic. It was then, in the contemporary age, that Sulzer Gebrùder introduced without- shuttle looms.
Marco Polo and the very long history of :
More than seven centuries have passed ... and we talk about Marco Polo, a very young boy who started one of the most famous journeys in history. His life is then told in his famous book "Il Milione". Those were the years around the end of the 1200s and in his journey between time and space, our history begin between past and present….
The legendary Silk Road
Marco Polo's father and uncle had already traveled the mythical Silk road many years ago : The long commercial route that connected Europe to Asia. Marco Polo, still a teenager, instead participated in the second trip of 1271 which brought him for the first time to China, after a long and tiring journey of two and a half years, through seas, mountains, deserts and legendary cities.
The most important meeting
A painting of Shizu, better known as Kublai Khan, as he would have appeared in the 1260s. The Kublai khan was one of China’s most famous king. He was the grandson of Genghis Khan, the founder of the Mongol Empire. In his own right, Kublai Khan is remembered for having established the Yuan Dynasty.
Kublai Khan is described from Marco Polo as a great and powerful ruler, but also one who cares about his subjects, through his charity and almsgiving to the poor, as well as his fair treatment of his subordinates. However, throughout the many anecdotes told to describe the Great Khan, there are several that seem to characterize him as not so great. These include the stories of his many wives and mistresses, as well as the corruption caused by one of his close subordinates, Ahmed.
Looking for the best yarn in the world
THE LONG WAY BACK TO VENICE
The stages of the journey
All these adventures are written into the Milione. Marco Polo talks about his incredible travels between Europe and Asia, mixing places actually visited with others of which he reports information from other travelers. For this reason there is no unanimous agreement on the actual stages of his journey.
From Far East to Italy
A precious gift that we received have transformed over the centuries as one of our best product that characterize the "made in Italy"
THE FUMAGALLI MUSEUM
INSIDE The magic world of this incredible natural Fiber
The silkworm secretes a filament, variable in length from 350 meters to about 3 km, with which it forms the cocoon that can provide protection during metamorphosis. The filament is formed by two filaments of the fibroin (present for about 80% of weight) wrapped in the sericin (about 20%). This is eliminated later during a process called "degumming". Under the microscope the fiber has a regular appearance very similar to that of synthetic fibers. Sericin can be eliminated by treating the thread of raw silk (raw silk) with hot water: this treatment improves the gloss, the flexibility and the "hand" of the fiber. Depending on the amount of sericin eliminated we can have the different kind of silk !